On the Tolkien Trail: Following in the footsteps of J R R Tolkien in Lancashire
In celebration of the 87th anniversary since the publication of The Hobbit, take a Tolkien-esque walk through the Lancashire valley that inspired it
Words by Lynn Houghton
The blush pink of Pendle Grit gives the countryside of Lancashire’s Ribble Valley a distinctive pastel hue. Many farmhouses, barns, out buildings, even entire villages, are made of this attractively coloured sandstone. And this distinctive natural resource is what separates northern Lancashire from Yorkshire with its granite terrain.
This valley’s long history is not without fascinating, and even gruesome, events but nowadays it is the link with J.R.R.Tolkien and his children’s book The Hobbit that is perhaps most enduring.
Tolkien was in digs in the Ribble Valley’s Hurst Green during the Second World War and stayed at Stonyhurst College, where his son had been evacuated to. Fans of The Hobbit may know that the Shire and Hobbiton are inspired by the pastoral beauty of this area. It is also believed he began to construct his great trilogy, The Lord of the Rings, while here.
Of course, the earlier 20th-century conflict is what most influenced The Lord of The Rings. The horrors of the First World War had a powerful impact on Tolkien, who served as a second lieutenant in the Lancashire Fusiliers. The fire, dragons, and horror of Mordor were thought to reflect the trench warfare, machinery, and carnage of his time fighting in France.
My first visit to this part of the world was during a drizzly weekend in February, and I initially stayed in the picturesque village of Wiswell, which is nestled at the foot of the 557-metre-high Pendle Hill.
This village is part of the Forest of Bowland’s AONB (Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty) and from this base are truly exceptional country walks. Historically, it is famous for the 17th-century Pendle Witch trials, but I was drawn to the outdoor offerings and also the excellent Freemasons at Wiswell, which offers boutique accommodation, an award-winning restaurant named Mr Smith’s, plus a tiny pub, the Fox’s Den.
Mr Smith’s was awarded 5th place in the Estrella Damn Top 50 Gastropubs 2022 and excels in dishes using local Lancashire produce with a contemporary flair. I sat at the Kitchen Bench, which puts the diner right in the hub of the chef’s kitchen – a unique gastronomic experience.
I must mention visiting Clitheroe, the commercial heart of the Ribble Valley. This thriving market town was chartered by Henry de Lacy in 1147 and is the second oldest township in Lancashire. Amenities include lots of shops, as well as a variety of pubs and restaurants. The town’s centre is overlooked by a 12th-century Norman Castle where the award-winning Clitheroe Castle Museum is situated. Bowland Food Hall, which shares its commercial complex with a cinema, is a food and drink emporium known for its deli counter that overflows with local cheeses and fresh produce.
It was then off to Hurst Green to hike the Tolkien Trail and follow in his footsteps. Rainy days can be slightly daunting for a hike, but it still made for an enjoyable outing.
Turn the page for 8 key highlights along the route.
Distance: 9km Loop
Route: Take a map as the trail is not particularly well-marked, though there are signposts indicating the public footpath
- The Shireburn Arms
The Shireburn Arms is a 17th-century hostelry in Hurst Green near where the Tolkien Trail both starts and ends. This country house hotel has retained many original features and is well known for its food. The property’s inviting pub has a cosy fireplace in the public room – a godsend following a trek on a wintry day. There are also rooms for those wishing to stay overnight. shireburnarmshotel.co.uk
2. Hurst Green
With the building of Stonyhurst Hall in 1592, the hamlet of Hurst Green started to develop and by the beginning of the 20th century had reached its current size of about 500 inhabitants. The alms houses located on Avenue Road were donated by Richard Shireburn and he also set up the St. Joseph’s Roman Catholic Primary School here. There is evidence of two old bobbin mills, which bear testament to an early cotton industry.
3. Stonyhurst College
It was a while before any structure was finished on the site of Stonyhurst. Though deeds have been found referring to the 12th century, the first construction wasn’t completed until 1372 when Roman Catholic, John de Bayley, built an oratory.
Richard Shireburn, a relation of de Bayley, founded the current school in 1593 which had connections to St Omer in the Spanish Low Countries, then Bruge and Liége. Oliver Cromwell stayed here in 1648 and is reputed to have slept in full armour on the Jacobean Great Hall’s table as he didn’t trust his Catholic hosts. He was reputed as saying this was “the best half house” he had seen as the Hall was still unfinished. The 19th-century St. Peter’s Church, chapel for the college and parish church for Hurst Green, and the 19th-century observatory are worth seeing. Stonyhurst College’s clay pigeon shooting range is on the trail and there is a bell to ring to warn shooters of walkers.
4. Hall Barn Farm
Taking a right when going past Stonyhurst College’s observatory, walkers will soon see the structures that are part of the 16th-century Hall Barn Farm. Turning into the tarmac road, follow along with the barn on the left and the attractive Gardener’s Cottage further along on the right.
5. In Honour of Gandalf
After walking past Hall Barn Farm, the trail passes along the school playing fields on the left. The path takes you through Over Hacking Wood forest but there is also a private road that leads to Hodder Place, formerly a preparatory school but now converted to apartments. On the grounds of Hodder Place stands an impressive hand-carved statue of Tolkien’s wizard Gandalf.
6. A Trilogy of Rivers
Following along the Tolkien Trail eventually leads you to the River Hodder, and the path follows it for a couple of kilometres before it joins up with the River Ribble. The River Hodder originates in the Forest of Bowland and, for the more adventurous, there is a steppingstone bridge at Whitewell known locally as the hipping bridge.
The River Ribble begins at the confluence of the Gayle Beck and Cam Beck near the famous viaduct at Ribblehead. This is in the shadow of the Yorkshire Three Peaks and from here it flows through the Forest of Bowland and eventually to the Irish Sea. The trail also offers a peek at the River Calder at its confluence. Anglers will know this is one of the best places to fish salmon and sea trout in the UK.
7. Cromwell Bridge
About halfway along the Tolkien Trail is the modern Lower Hodder Bridge but just a bit further along is the ancient pack horse bridge used by Cromwell’s army. Though no longer in use, and in poor condition with uneven rubble and stones, at one time it was the crossing point for Cromwell’s soldiers and artillery on their way to the Battle of Preston in 1648.
8. Hacking Ferry
At the confluence of the River Ribble and Calder River is Hacking Hall and where a ferry crossing existed from the 17th century to the 1930s. The Hacking Ferry Service was started by the Shireburn family so that parishioners could access the local church. It is thought that Tolkien’s idea for the Buckleberry Ferry in The Lord of the Rings was based on the Hacking Ferry. Recently, one of the original ferry boats was discovered in a barn on Winkley Hall Farm. It is now restored and on display in the Clitheroe Castle Museum.
For more information on the Tolkien Trail go to visitribblevalley.co.uk
